We had an absolute amazing time seeing all the highlights and exploring all the amazing parts of the city. I took French in high school and still LOVE the language, culture, and food. Ryan likes it because I can communicate decently when things come up that could stress out a tourist when the language is a barrier. Ryan actually made a "I could punch you in the face comment" while we were traveling to Paris. I asked him if he was excited to go to France and see everything and he replied, "I'm trying to be excited." At the end of the trip, I am happy to report that he did in fact have fun and only had to try minimally.
I always start by printing all of our tour and train tickets as well as a tentative itinerary to budget our time and allow us to get to the places we want to see. I like to be extra prepared so I can be our little travel agent! We used the Rick Steves' France book for some good information about several hot spots. I also downloaded a city map app to my phone and iPad just in case. Another trick I like for using a map is having Paris pulled up on my google map app and then when you are in the city you can still zoom in and out and follow the "blue ball" to help guide you around the city. I did use the Tripomatic App to plan out the trip, but used it only a few times during our actual stay.
The Paris Metro is super easy and handy to use when you visit. I downloaded the Paris Metro App to my phone, which had the metro map with all the lines and allowed to plan your routes. I highly recommend this app to help you before you choose a metro station and limit the time you spend getting from one place to the other.
We arrived into the city at about 9:15 pm. We went to the ticket office for the Metro and bought 2 carnat's (20 tickets) of tickets for about 26 Euro to use while we were there. This is a better deal than buying individual tickets, and it saves you time from buying tickets each time. We hopped on our line and got off in Montmarte just a few blocks from our apartment. We booked a small studio apartment in the Montmartre district through airbnb. Again, highly recommend using this website to find lodging. I also like booking.com, but sometimes I find even better deals through airbnb.
We decided to take a night time stroll through the area and see the Moulin Rouge. There was a long line and I really wanted to go and originally had planned to buy us tickets, but decided that we could do that the next time we go to Paris! I had found a few restaurants on trip advisor before we arrived so we made our way to this small Italian restaurant called Al Caratello. It was a small and quaint place where they squeezed us in for a late night snack. We shared a pasta and 50 cl of red wine all for 20 euro!
The next day was a very ambitious itinerary. From reading the Rick Steves book on the best days to go to Versailles, I decided that Saturday was our best bet to avoid crazy crowds and tour buses. This meant we had to get up at 6:45 the next morning to catch the Metro. Another tidbit here, when you go to Versailles you are taking a suburban train called an RER train, and more specifically the RER C train to Versailles. This requires an additional ticket and cost, and includes any Metro stops you need to take in order to get to the RER train. So we purchased these tickets at the Metro by our apartment and headed that way. I want to say it cost about 13 Euro for two of us roundtrip. You will take the RER C train that says Chateau Versailles Rive Gauche and take the train to the last stop. Rick advised to stop by the Versailles Tourist office just a few blocks from the train station to buy the Paris Museum Pass. We attempted this, but the man that sold them was late coming to work and his co-worker told us we would have to buy them at Versailles. Luckily, since we arrived at about 8:45, we were the third person in line for tickets and didn't have to wait in a long line. Another travel tidbit, the museum pass really is the way to go to save money on site seeing in Paris. You can buy the pass for 2, 4, or 6 day increments. We decided to go with the 2 day pass for 42 Euro, which meant we would be heavily site seeing for those 2 days to make good use of the pass. It allows skip the line entrance and covers more than 60 attractions in Paris, excluding the Eiffel Tower. Versailles alone costs 25 Euro in entrance costs, so the pass is really worth your while!
At Versailles you get a free audioguide for and you can tour on your own pace. I really enjoyed the palace and especially the Hall of Mirrors. After the palace tour we walked through the Gardens, drank some Gluhwein, and had a terrible lunch. The cafe looked cute and my cappuccino was good, but the food was horrible. From there we headed up to the Trianon and Hamlet area of the property, which didn't open until noon. After all was said and done we were back on the train at 2:15. You could definitely spend a longer time there, but we had other things we wanted to do in the afternoon!
We arrived at the Arc De Triumph Metro stop at 3:00 and skipped the line with our pass to make our way to the top. This was another highlight of the trip. Its so much more beautiful in person, and you really can't beat the view from the top. The Arc connects with the Champs Elysee, which is a fun street to stroll down. We made a snack stop at an eis cafe and perused some of the shops. They also have a famous Burlesque show, Lido, that I want to try to see next time we are there.
Towards the end of the street we saw them starting to set up the Christmas Market stands! I love that it is the holiday season. We ended at the Concord Square where the Orangerie museum is located. This was also included in our pass and since it was later in the day, we had minimal crowds. This was one of my favorite museums and a great place to actually enjoy the art. We saw Monet, Picasso, Matisse, and many more and it took me back to my art class days. Ryan isn't that impressed with art, but this museum didn't bother him as much as some do!! It is small, easy to get through, and elicits minimal stress. After that long day, we took the Metro back up to our apartment, changed for dinner, and strolled along the lit streets in Montmartre. We found a great place for dinner called Le Jardin d'en Face. The owner also owns Le Potager across the street which offers the same menu just a different server and chef. Then next to Le Potager is a higher end restaurant we tried on another day. All three are exceptional and super reasonably priced for the amazing cuisine that they offer.
Towards the end of the street we saw them starting to set up the Christmas Market stands! I love that it is the holiday season. We ended at the Concord Square where the Orangerie museum is located. This was also included in our pass and since it was later in the day, we had minimal crowds. This was one of my favorite museums and a great place to actually enjoy the art. We saw Monet, Picasso, Matisse, and many more and it took me back to my art class days. Ryan isn't that impressed with art, but this museum didn't bother him as much as some do!! It is small, easy to get through, and elicits minimal stress. After that long day, we took the Metro back up to our apartment, changed for dinner, and strolled along the lit streets in Montmartre. We found a great place for dinner called Le Jardin d'en Face. The owner also owns Le Potager across the street which offers the same menu just a different server and chef. Then next to Le Potager is a higher end restaurant we tried on another day. All three are exceptional and super reasonably priced for the amazing cuisine that they offer.
We had bought a bottle of champagne and after dinner made our way up to the Sacrer Coeur. This gorgeous white Cathedral is lit up at night and sits on the highest hill in Paris. People there were loud, breaking bottles, and causing scenes. It was super rude and disrespectful and not to mention that took the romance out of sitting on the steps overlooking the lit up city, so we called it a night.
The next day was semi-ambitious as well. We started out by taking the Metro to Notre Dame. We crossed the Ponte Neuf bridge, which offers great views of the Seine and the Eiffel in the distance. Beware of the gypsies running around scamming you out of money. They came up to us asking if we spoke English. Of course we were trying to be kind only to find they wanted us to sign a petition for the deaf. Me, speaking ASL ,was like "oh yes of course," then they want your money. Ryan pulled out 3 Euro from his pocket and they were not happy about it. They requested more and looked at us like we were the scum of the earth. I almost took my money back and crossed my name off their list, but we just told them "no, that is all we have and that is all you get" and walked off. These people were everywhere and at every big museum and tourist attraction. The same mean ladies kept coming up to us, and each time we told them they had already scammed us and to go find some other tourists. Lesson learned. Ok, back to Notre Dame. It was Sunday, so we got to watch some of the mass. It was beautiful and the singing was magnificent. The church was beautiful like all European churches, but even more gorgeous with the service going on. We then made our way to the line to ascend up to the bell towers. The museum pass covers your entrance fee, but does not allow you to skip the line. We waited about 30 minutes in the line and meanwhile had a nutella crepe for breakfast while we waited. If you do want some souvenirs that area across from the church has the best prices we saw for the most part.
We made our way over to the Love Lock Bridge which intersects with the Louvre.
The Louvre was the old Palace, so it was gorgeous, huge, and neat to see, but this museum is overwhelming. I feel like you need a tour guide to really know what you are seeing and know the importance of the pieces. We saw the Mona Lisa, some sculptures, and then the crowds hit and we just couldn't handle it anymore. From there we walked to the St. Germain neighborhood and walked around that area for a while. We found a cute cafe and had a great meal and some yummy chocolate mousse. Next on our list was the Orsay museum. Again, we used our pass and skipped the huge long line. This was another of my favorite museums. Not too crowded, and housed some amazing art by Rodin, Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, Matisse, and more. This is more my style of art. I don't particularly love the Renaissance art, however, I do appreciate it. The Orsay was the old train station so just the building alone is beautiful. After a stroll through the foliage in the Tuliere Gardens we took the Metro back and relaxed before dinner.
This night we tried the restaurant next to the Le Potager and our favorite waiter served us there that night. I think it was called Le Vache et le Cuisiner. Amazing food and wine and having our amazing waiter didn't hurt either. After dinner, we had tickets to see a very small Cabaret show at Au Lapin Agile. It was 28 euro per person which included a drink. The doors opened at 9 pm and the show lasted until 2 am. Each of the performers run the entire gig, from taking coats, the checking you in and out, serving you, and singing, and putting on the show. It was delightful and fun singing lots of French songs I knew from my high school French days. We were however, exhausted from 2 days of straight up walking, climbing stairs, and bouncing from one attraction to the next so we left around midnight.
The Louvre was the old Palace, so it was gorgeous, huge, and neat to see, but this museum is overwhelming. I feel like you need a tour guide to really know what you are seeing and know the importance of the pieces. We saw the Mona Lisa, some sculptures, and then the crowds hit and we just couldn't handle it anymore. From there we walked to the St. Germain neighborhood and walked around that area for a while. We found a cute cafe and had a great meal and some yummy chocolate mousse. Next on our list was the Orsay museum. Again, we used our pass and skipped the huge long line. This was another of my favorite museums. Not too crowded, and housed some amazing art by Rodin, Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, Matisse, and more. This is more my style of art. I don't particularly love the Renaissance art, however, I do appreciate it. The Orsay was the old train station so just the building alone is beautiful. After a stroll through the foliage in the Tuliere Gardens we took the Metro back and relaxed before dinner.
Our AirBNB apartment in MontMarte
This night we tried the restaurant next to the Le Potager and our favorite waiter served us there that night. I think it was called Le Vache et le Cuisiner. Amazing food and wine and having our amazing waiter didn't hurt either. After dinner, we had tickets to see a very small Cabaret show at Au Lapin Agile. It was 28 euro per person which included a drink. The doors opened at 9 pm and the show lasted until 2 am. Each of the performers run the entire gig, from taking coats, the checking you in and out, serving you, and singing, and putting on the show. It was delightful and fun singing lots of French songs I knew from my high school French days. We were however, exhausted from 2 days of straight up walking, climbing stairs, and bouncing from one attraction to the next so we left around midnight.
The last 2 days of our trip were much more relaxing. We woke up and took the Metro down to the Eiffel. We stopped for some Cafe and pain au chocolat to start off our morning. You can purchase lift tickets for the Eiffel, but need to do so months in advance. We preferred taking the stairs. You can take your time, get some exercise, and take in the view along the way. You enter at the South entrance and it only costs 5 Euro. This was one of our favorite spots. It is so beautiful and impressive. I took so many pictures of it, but I just couldn't get enough. Even my honey liked it!
We strolled through the Champ du Mars and headed over to the Rue Cler area. It wasn't super busy on Monday, but you can still buy cheese, meat, wine, and produce to picnic somewhere in the city, or we found a small cafe and lingered for a lovely lunch. The french eat eggs for lunch, so we had quiche and an omelette, which were amazing. We stopped along the way for some ice cream and walked over to the War museum and over to the Alexander Bridge for more views of the city.
We had time to kill so we found a cute little Italian place near the Champ du Mars. We had intended to sit and have a bottle of wine before our night time Seine River cruise. We got more than we bargained for! This place was a gem. They brought us meats, cheeses, veggies, and more to munch on. After we finished our bottle, they filled our glasses up with another glass. We chatted with our amazing waiter, who then came out with Limoncello for us. To top it off he gave me some espresso to round out our unexpected meal! I cannot remember the name, but I will find it and let you all know!
We strolled through the Champ du Mars and headed over to the Rue Cler area. It wasn't super busy on Monday, but you can still buy cheese, meat, wine, and produce to picnic somewhere in the city, or we found a small cafe and lingered for a lovely lunch. The french eat eggs for lunch, so we had quiche and an omelette, which were amazing. We stopped along the way for some ice cream and walked over to the War museum and over to the Alexander Bridge for more views of the city.
We had time to kill so we found a cute little Italian place near the Champ du Mars. We had intended to sit and have a bottle of wine before our night time Seine River cruise. We got more than we bargained for! This place was a gem. They brought us meats, cheeses, veggies, and more to munch on. After we finished our bottle, they filled our glasses up with another glass. We chatted with our amazing waiter, who then came out with Limoncello for us. To top it off he gave me some espresso to round out our unexpected meal! I cannot remember the name, but I will find it and let you all know!
We made our way to the Trocadero neighborhood to board our boat for the night river cruise. We first made a pit stop to buy a hat and scarf because we were cold and ended up also buying the beloved selfie-stick. Yes, its cheesy, annoying, and weird, but that thing came in so handy to get some decent pix of ourselves without asking sketchy people!
The cruise was booked through Bateaux Parisians. It was 14 Euro per person for a one hour cruise at anytime of the day up until 10 pm. We went at about 6:00 and it was already dark and the perfect time to go! Paris really is gorgeous at night time and turns into a different city! We loved that cruise and would recommend it! They also have more expensive dinner cruises that you can do as well. I had found a restaurant near the Eiffel on trip advisor that had great reviews so we checked it out. It was 64 Euro for both of us and we each had 3 courses. It was a wonderful place, great owners, and amazing food. It was Restaurant de la Tour and you should go! It was also near the Metro stop that we conveniently rolled to after a full meal!
Our last day in Paris, we still had extra Metro tickets to use. We decided to head back downtown to see things we had missed along the way. We went to Starbucks, which was right up from our Metro stop! Yay for holiday coffee treats! We explored Marais, Place du Vosges, Il St. Louis, Notre Dame area again, The Pantheon, Luxembourg Gardens, and St. Sulpice. Lastly we crossed the Love Lock Bridge one more time and took the Metro up to Montmartre. We spent the rest of the day exploring that area more closely, touring Sacrer Coeur, and watching the artists at work on Place du Terte.
It was sad to say goodbye to Paris, but we took the Metro back to the Paris l'Est train station and headed home. We had one more quick sleep in our bed before we ventured on to Garmisch.
Next time we go to Paris, we want to eat at more fabulous places and take a full day/night photography class all over the city! We were able to see the sites and explore the city on quite a budget and hopefully some of these tips help you in your planning process!
Lodging: Airbnb apartment in Montmartre
Transportation: SNCF Train/Metro
Museum Fees: Museum Pass, 5 Euro for Eiffel
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